Spot the Designer - Ellina Iva/ Ukraine

What did you want to be when you were a child?

Despite the fact that there were no artistically inclined people in my family or among friends, I had a dream of becoming an artist from my childhood.

When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

My childhood dream came true, I completed a higher artistic degree. Once, preparing for a personal exhibition, I wanted to wear a statement ring with a large stone for the opening. The idea was to have it made for me – hence I went online to select a stone. Once I discovered a site with a huge variety of cabochons, I spent the whole day there – fantasizing how I would imagine them in various jewellery pieces. Something changes inside of me – for about a year I was dreaming of making jewellery myself before I coughed up the courage and found a master jeweller to teach me. I spent half a year in training and in 2017 completed my first series of silver pieces with cabochons.  

 What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?

Another project which is very close to me is the one where I wanted to marry two of my biggest passions – painting and the art of jewelry. That is how the KAZIMIR rings and earrings were born – dedicated to the Ukrainian avant-guard artist Malevich. Creating this set I used silver, canvas and oil paints. The pieces are silver framed black and red squares reflecting the essence and symbols  of Kazimir Malevich suprematist art.  

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?   

Since I started making jewellery, it completely overtook me, however there are times when the jewellery routine tires me – I may take up the brushes and reminding myself, that I am also a painter – even though it happens once or twice a year at most.    


What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?

I have spent years in academic education – hence classical art traditions are part of me. Sometimes I find it limiting – felling an urge to expand my artistic horizons. Every now and then I like to use the contemporary art convention –jewellery being an excellent medium for this - and combine the traditional and abstract.

 Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you?                                       

It is hard to say, which of my pieces is most me – I create each one with immense love. Today I would say, that “Faith in Victory” cross is the most important for me.  This is a charitable project helping our defenders protecting us from the russian invasion. This cross is not a religious symbol, it is a symbol of hope and trust in our army men and women. It is made using using cartridge cases from the front line. Thus fired bullets get a new life and continue their mission – since the money raised supports the Ukrainian army.  

Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?                                 

I like to experiment unconventional materials, e.g. canvas and paints, bee wax candles, or plastic dolls or toy animal eyes combined with silver – a very interesting experience. I think it would have been a big challenge for me not to use non-traditional materials combined with metals and conventional techniques to create contemporary pieces.  

How was the pandemic period for you as a jewelry designer?

Thinking back to the recent pandemic – it does not feel too bad. Yes, there were certain restrictions causing discomfort, many businesses were in a crisis leading to significant negative economic consequences. I continued working I my studio as before.  Now, in 2023 I can confidently say, that the pandemic was not that hard – because one could not have imagined the horrendous unjust and cruel war I and the rest of my country live in. 

How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?                                                                   

It is hard for me to predict what will be the future of contemporary art – it is hard for me to imagine that future as long as I live in the country under the war. But I wish it developed and attracted interest from more people, especially in Ukraine. I wish unique pieces were more and more appreciated and people turned away from the mass market and chose jewelry which they can relate to and which reflects the uniqueness of every individual.

Find more about the designer Ellina Iva

Assamblage Association