Spot the Designer - Frans Beelen/ Netherlands

What did you want to be when you were a child?

I grew up in a Catholic family. As a child I wanted to become the Pope! Now, in 2021, I have to laugh a little bit about that, but at that time I was not yet aware that this position would never be available to a girl.

When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

I started making (feminist) sculptures and jewelry in the 70’s. In those days, it was customary for women to wear dungarees. It was a kind of symbol for the feminist movement: because we are not sexobjects, we have to objectify our body. But I thought the dungarees achieved the opposite: by hiding ourself in these shapeless things we couldn't be proud of who we are. With my jewelry I wanted women to show themselves as women, that was my mission. The design of my jewelry is still inspired by this. Wearing my jewelry means: Look at me: I am as I am, I am a woman , I am strong, powerful and beautiful!

What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view? 

When I just started making jewelry, I used tough and sturdy materials such as metal and wood. Over time I discovered that these materials are not very pleasant to wear. After a long search I switched to textile as the main material, The chest piece that you see in the picture (1974) is made of metal, mother-of-pearl and glassbeads and dates from those early days. I chose this piece because you can see that I already started experimenting with different materials. Although nowadays textile is my main material, the use of glassbeads is also very characteristic in my work. After a while I was able to add stones and shells as I learned how to work them and wrap them in the textile. In this way the jewelry remained soft and light and pleasant to wear. So I found a way to combine the soft and the sturdy.

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?

Several times a year I spend a week on my own in a small house in the middle of nature. The peace, the colours of nature around me.. they charge me. Furthermore, I also like swimming and singing.

What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?

I prefer the care and precision of handicrafts that lead to unique items. I like that my work is often compared to Jugendstil and ethnic jewelry. This places them in a long tradition of crafts. For me it is less important that they now fit into contemporary design.

Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you?

I often wear this brooch. For me it's a colorful sculpture. The brooch consists of two parts of abalone shell. The parts are flexibly attached to each other with pink cord. It is surrounded by textiles and subtle veil. Two red lines dance out of the ornament. As a self-portrait: I consider myself colorful. Two sides in myself: self-assured and firm on the one hand, and vulnerable and subtle on the other. Thanks to a soft protective layer I can playfully make contact with my environment.

Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?

I have the feeling that, after a long time of experimenting, I found my material: Textile...and I can add any material to that. As long as it has a beautiful colour, shape and structure. And the material must also be able to be made light and soft. And it should not become matt or break when worn. If these conditions are met, then any material can be used .. so I sometimes use zippers, small wooden stumps, kernels, dried stems of fruits etc. The material I want to add to a new piece of jewelry will present itself.

How was the pandemic period for you as a jewelry designer?

I work on my jewelry almost daily and I also did that during the corona time. If I hadn't had my artist work, the pandemic would have been much harder for me. There were fewer exhibits. And the galleries where my work is permanently displayed were closed for a while. That was a pitty, but it gave me more extra time to make new jewelry.

How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?

I think development of new materials and technology will find a place in contemporary jewelry. Like the 'bio-art' and material that gets a different color due to bodywarmth. I hope portability remains an important starting point for these new possibilities.

Find more about the designer Frans Beelen