Spot the Designer - Helka Kettunen/ Finland

What did you want to be when you were a child?

As a child I wanted to be an art teacher.

When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

When I was a child, I was fortunate enough to live near a brick factory. The factory itself was a world of wonder, but what truly captured my imagination were the open trenches of clay that surrounded the factory. I couldn't resist the urge to pick up a clay. With clay in hand, I began to mold and shape. I formed crude beads and simple animals. The process fascinated me: the way the clay yielded under my fingers, taking on new forms at my command. Eventually, what had started as a simple curiosity evolved into a full-blown passion. The brick factory and its surrounding clay trenches had become more than just a backdrop to my childhood – they had become the birthplace of my dreams.

What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?

At the age of sixteen, I watched my father as he crafted lures out of gleaming copper. Each twist and turn of the metal seemed like a secret language that only he understood.  Inspired by his skill, I ask him if he could teach me to create jewelry. At that time, I was entangled in the mystique of horoscopes. I approached my father with the idea of fashioning a Pisces zodiac jewelry piece. My father explained that mastering the craft required patience and practice. But heeding his advice, I embarked on my first jewelry-making journey. The result may not be the most expertly crafted piece in my collection, but its value lies far beyond its physical form. It carries within it the spirit of young person's creativity.

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?

 I charge my batteries by going out into nature. The Middle Ages is also my hobby. I have made my medieval costume and headdress myself. Every July I participate in the Tallina Medieval Days. The event starts with an exciting medieval procession through the Old Town. We are dressed in medieval costumes and the musicians will make music during the procession. A large medieval market is set up in the Town Hall Square with merchants and workshops. During the Medieval Days you are able to feel the atmosphere of the flourishing Hanseatic era.

What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?

As a jewelry maker, the interplay between tradition and contemporary design is a constant source of inspiration and challenge. At the heart of traditional jewelry making lies a profound respect for materials, usability, and craftsmanship. Traditional techniques, passed down through generations, have become the bedrock of my craft. But there's a sense of empowerment that comes with contemporary design. The freedom to experiment with form, texture, and colour, without losing touch with the roots of my craft, is an incredible privilege. The idea that a piece of jewelry can be a conduit for an artist's innermost thoughts and emotions is both liberating and exhilarating. The focus shifts from the confines of tradition to the boundless world of imagination explore the uncharted territories of unconventional materials, upcycled or recycled elements that breathe new life into forgotten treasures. This approach aligns with my values, allowing me to contribute to sustainability while also pushing my creativity to new heights. In the end, the connection between jewelry making tradition and contemporary design is a journey of evolution. It's a journey that involves embracing the lessons of the past while fearlessly exploring the possibilities of the present.

Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you?

I think it's the Pisces pendant I created. Over the years, that piece has remained a cherished keepsake – a tangible reminder of the beginning of my journey into jewelry making. I recognize the flaws in its design, the uneven edges, and the occasional rough surface. But beyond its imperfections lay a story of curiosity, determination, and the desire to evolve. As a jewelry maker, lifelong learning is an essential and fulfilling aspect of my craft. It's a continuous journey of exploration, growth, and creative evolution that keeps me engaged and passionate about what I do.

Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?

Gold, but it's far too expensive a material for me, even if it's recycled.

How was the pandemic period for you as a jewelry designer?

The whole of Finnish society was in a closed state. Fortunately, I have a workshop at home, so I kept working.

How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?

I believe that the future of contemporary jewelry holds a fascinating evolution. Precious metals and stones, while timeless in their allure, have a significant impact on the environment due to their extraction and processing. This concern is driving a shift towards more sustainable practices in the jewelry industry. In my opinion, the appreciation for these traditional materials will endure, but with a new perspective. Recycling precious metals is becoming more common, allowing old and forgotten pieces to be transformed into fresh creations. Gold can be melted down, and gemstones can be repurposed in innovative ways, giving birth to entirely new designs. Moreover, the concept of "valuable" jewelry is undergoing a transformation. Contemporary jewelry design increasingly embraces materials that are not traditionally considered valuable, such as various plastics, glass, and different types of wood. This shift challenges conventional notions of worth, focusing instead on creativity and sustainability. Jewelry crafted from recycled and eco-friendly materials is gaining popularity, showcasing a growing commitment to responsible consumption. While precious materials will always hold a special place, a new generation of designers and consumers is redefining the industry by valuing creativity, eco-consciousness, and the beauty of unconventional materials.

Find more about the designer Helka Kettunen

Assamblage Association