Spot the Designer - Matilde Mozzanega/UK
What did you want to be when you were a child?
When I was a child, I wanted to become a painter with a studio facing the sea. I still dream about it, with the addition of a jewellery workshop too!
When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?
I cannot remember not making jewellery. I started since I was very little, probably around kindergarten. I have always collected beads and curious objects during family holidays and trips around the world. When I was about 7 or 8, I remember starting to sell my jewellery in the park on a bench, carefully placing them onto a yellow blanket for display. The fascination around the theme of material transformation and value, combining precious and non-precious materials has always felt personal to me and I started to cultivate it from a very early age
What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?
The most significant collection for me has been my graduate collection (2018) – Cardboard Cutouts - made out of upcycled industrial cardboard tubing. Through a process of utter metamorphosis, I mimic natural materials out of the same cardboard tube, taking what is conventional far afield: driftwood, stone, marble, bamboo and ceramic are the main features that this polymorphic material assumes. One might assume he or she is looking at something clearly definite, but it turns out it can very well be another thing. The material goes back to ‘what it used to be’ as in an alchemical cycle for where matter goes back to its primordial state. The deceptive nature of my work disrupts the jewellery and design landscape, celebrating high levels of craftsmanship and passion for making. The result is a unique product, that sits between the field of contemporary jewellery and organic, sculptural wearable art. This work is a personal reminder of the fact that I am the only limit to achieving my goals. Anything is possible if passion, perseverance and dedication are there.
How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?
My main other passions are painting, photography, running and cycling. They are my ways to stay grounded, recharge and feel nurtured from within. Very often, when I feel ‘stuck’ jewellery-wise, I do any of these activities and suddenly everything makes sense again.
What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?
I believe that the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design is what gives jewellery and contemporary jewellery a substance. Inspiration from traditional techniques is essential in order to move forward. In order to break the rules, you must first master them.
Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you?
This is a self-portrait I made when I lived in Boston for a year during high school when I was 17. It was a very tough, enriching year that taught me a lot about myself, creatively and personally too. It is melancholic, yet dreamy and imaginative.
Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?
I would like to explore the concept of material transformation through other mediums like clay, wood, and aluminium. I am very fascinated by the properties of non-precious materials, how to transform and repurpose them.
How was the pandemic period for you as a jewelry designer?
The pandemic has been a very challenging time for me as a jeweller. I am from Italy and my hometown, Milan was very badly hit by it. During the hardest times (when my parents and especially my dad was very ill in the hospital due to the virus) - I found extreme comfort in simple pleasures like cooking, painting, gardening and creative activities I used to do as a child. It has been a time of deep reflection that has put everything else into perspective. Now more than ever, making is an introspective time that allows me to express myself freely, without boundaries.
How do you see the future of contemporary jewellery?
I believe that the contemporary jewellery scene will grow and develop in the future. I would love for it to expand towards other disciplines/arts in order for it to become more accessible and digestible to a wider audience.
Find more about the designer Matilde Mozzanega