Spot the Designer - Yuxi Ji/ China

What did you want to be when you were a child?

I haven't decided yet when I were a child. What I encourage is to try and fail before you know where the interest lies.

When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

When I was in college, I started to get in touch with jewelry design. I was always attracted by shiny things. Until I chose the jewelry design as my major, I just noticed the jewelry design is not only about the gem stone, but also the bamboo weaving, embroidery, and even the human body also can be the gem stones. It broke my limitation I think that is the reason why so many people like jewelry, jewelry can be a medium for us to express our views to the world.

What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?

‘Farewell my concubine’ is my first complete project. I use the Suzhou embroidery craft to present social stereotypes and gender identity. The technique of Suzhou embroidery was used in this project, but at that time it was just a medium I used to express my concept. But while I was working on the embroidery part with my grandmother, she talked a lot about her past, I can feel that Suzhou embroidery has become an indispensable part of her life. This is amazing to me, because for my generation, Suzhou embroidery is no longer closely related to our lives. But as a person with a traditional cultural background and experience studying contemporary art, I have become an awkward fusion. In such a situation, I started to re-examine my identity. Therefore, during my postgraduate period, in the process of thinking about how to innovate Suzhou embroidery, it is also a reshaping of my self-identity.

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?

Every project is the new beginning. As a designer, we are asked to keep the attention in everything around us. I think the most important thing is to find the interesting thing that other people can’t find.

What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?

The craft I use comes from the traditional manufacturing industry. Suzhou embroidery is a traditional handicraft. The connection between it and contemporary design is to express a possibility, and for me, it is more of a possibility exploration for the future development of culture and craft sustainability.

Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you? 

This piece can best reflect my idea and myself. I always use the skills of fashion design to broaden the limitations of jewelry design, and its pleating and sewing are vividly reflected in this jewelry. I designed it to look different from any angle, including its pattern density and color selection, which is inspired by the changing scenery in Suzhou gardens. It is such irregular form and pattern that can show our unique aesthetic and attitude.

Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?

Embroidery. After researching the history of embroidery in China, I realized that Suzhou embroidery needs to make some innovative changes in order to adapt to the current environment, and as a local with this cultural background, I want to inherit this culture. In the way of trying, I often ask myself if it is still Suzhou embroidery if it is separated and broken. So for me, it's a challenge to explore the future of culture in depth.

How was the pandemic period for you as a jewelry designer?

The epidemic did affect many things. For example, it was difficult to go to many places and we missed many things, but it also made me pay more attention to things far away from me and people around me. As a jewelry designer, I was thinking that using jewelry to short distance might be a solution. Use jewelry to let different people feel the charm of the local culture.

How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?

Contemporary jewelry will also face wearing problems. Under the current general trend, more and more people will pay attention to the expression of identity and personality, and the powerful expression of concept of contemporary jewelry can be applied to daily wear.

Find more about the designer Yuxi Ji