Spot the Designer - Laura Micheli/ Switzerland

What did you want to be when you were a child?

As a child, I was fascinated by every kind of handwork and craft. At a very young age, I started to draw, paint and create little sculptures and objects. I had quite a gift for manual work and a propensity for precision.

When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

My very first approach to jewelry was at the age of 17 when I started creating pieces of jewelry using semi-precious stones I found on my travels, resin and unconventional materials like nails, nuts, and bolts, joined by rubber and metal wires. Then I discovered a jewelry laboratory in my hometown where a woman realizes beautiful jewelry in precious metals with a natural, organic aesthetic. At this point, I became fascinated by precious metals and decided to learn the basic techniques of jewelry making. During my studies at the University of Architecture, I kept jewelry-making as interest and passion: I studied, researched and took courses to improve my technical skills and, at the same time, I let myself be inspired by the world of architecture and experimented with materials like wood, concrete, plaster, and wax. I guess I can say that after the start, it all came spontaneously...I didn't really look for this passion, it just found me.

What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?

My first significant piece was the pair of earrings "Zefiro", back in 2016. They were not a commission, but I designed them for myself, as I hated to wear heavy pieces of earrings, but struggled to find ones that are light, but visible and special at the same time. In 2018 this piece was awarded among the competition "A Design Award" and this pushed me to give jewelry making more space in my life. It represents also the moment I started to define what my voice, vision, and research among the artistic field of contemporary jewelry are.

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?

I charge my batteries drawing, painting, immersing myself in music and running. I also love chasing architecture and new cultures through travelling.

What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?

I think that one contains intrinsically the other. The manufacturing tradition of my country, Italy, is a treasure that I feel very lucky to be able to easily approach, learn and rework. I believe in contemporary design as progress and invention, but also as a reworking of something that has already been, being inseparable from the work of sensation and of memory.

Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you?

I would choose the ring "Marmolada", from the "Petra" Series. It's a silver ring, roughly shaped with the saw to recall the texture and form of a homonymous mountain in Italy, a place where I used to spend all my summer holidays as a kid. Hidden in the silver, on the top of the ring, there is a little 18k golden nugget; you almost don't see it as it comes out only partially, so it's very subtle. The strong and quirky aesthetics of the ring, together with the delicate golden detail represent well my personality and design approach.

Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?

I would like to explore the use of textile materials more in the future.

How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?

Contemporary jewelry is a practice that seems to be difficult to frame, having roots in the craft as well as in visual art, in design, or in fashion. For this reason, I think that it's important to keep understanding jewelry as a carrier of memory. Jewelry is a microcosm that should not be considered as a discipline in its own, but rather as trans-disciplinary one; we have learned from how it transformed itself in history that jewelry it has the power to carry multiple meanings and translate them into a "common ground of individuality": to find a sensation which is related to anyone.

Find more about the designer Laura Micheli