Spot the Designer - Nuohan Jiang/ USA

What did you want to be when you were a child?

I wanted to be a painter when I was a child. I found an art book about Henri Matisse when I was eight and I was immediately drawn into his works. I spent that summer holiday copying his paintings and drawing my surroundings.

When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

I made my first jewelry piece when I was 16. At that time, a new jewelry store opened near my home, and I was surprised to find that jewelry can be creatively made. Those were still very commercial jewelry when I think about it now. But it was a start point for me to find my interest in jewelry. Later, I discovered more contemporary jewelry works and was fascinated by the idea that jewelry can be wearable art.

What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?

The first piece of jewelry that I made was a cuff inspired by fallen leaves. It is the start point for me to explore imperfect and abandoned things, which later became the recurring subject matter in my works. Fallen leaves are more attractive to me than leaves that are green and live. There was a moment when I realized that my works had always been about absence and completeness. My art is inspired by those that are lacking and tries to fulfill them towards internal completeness.

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?

For me, there is no boundary between different disciplines of art. I’m interested in exploring all kinds of media. I make contemporary jewelry when it is the appropriate form for me to express a subject matter. When other media might be more suitable to explore a subject matter, I don’t hesitate to try them out. Therefore, I have also been making installations, paintings, performance art, and videos.

Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you?

Actually, my new project is about self-portraits! I’m still drawing sketches now. It’s about exploring the internal transformation that has been going on in me. There are new elements that are chaotic and complicated but not necessarily bad. They are gradually forming into a part of me.

Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?

I haven’t used any diamonds yet. Its price makes it difficult to be experimented with because one certainly doesn’t want to risk ruining a diamond if the experiment doesn’t go well. But still, using diamonds has been a temptation for me. Diamonds have fixed commercial images, but we can use diamonds in new ways that give them a fresh look.

How was the pandemic period for you as a jewelry designer?

It was frustrating for me at the beginning because I did not have access to studios and materials to create works. Then I started using what I can find at my home to make pieces, and I discovered many possibilities through that. The pandemic period was a difficult time for me in many ways, but I was forced to stop and examine my life and works, which was important.

How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?

I can see contemporary jewelry becoming more popular in the future. It is a young form of art comparing to others. It takes time and education for people to understand more about contemporary jewelry and become willing to buy and wear it. I think it’s important for curators of contemporary jewelry exhibitions to explore strategies that can introduce contemporary jewelry to more new audiences. Many people enjoy visiting museums to see paintings and sculptures, but they have probably never heard of contemporary jewelry. I think many potential audiences will be interested in contemporary jewelry, but they haven’t gotten the chance to really get to know it.

Find the designer Nuohan Jiang