Spot the designer - Yoonjung Choi

 What did you want to be when you were a kid?

I have dreamed of becoming a jewelry designer since childhood. My father worked at an airport, and he would bring home an international flight magazine once a month. I believe the magazine was called "Morning Calm." It was in that magazine that I first encountered the glamorous and bold luxury jewelry pieces, which inspired me to pursue my dream of becoming a jewelry designer from an early age. To achieve this dream, I attended an arts high school and later a design university, where I majored in metalcraft and jewelry design. Even now, I am still working towards realizing that dream.

When did you start creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

I held my first solo jewelry exhibition in 2013.  I enrolled at Hongik University in 2001, majoring in metalcraft and jewelry design. As I pursued my graduate studies, I focused on creating deeper and more innovative pieces as a jewelry designer.

 What was the first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?

At the age of 29, I became a mother. During my pregnancy, I had to temporarily pause my personal life and stay in the hospital for an extended period to ensure the safe delivery of my baby. While in the hospital, I was confined to my bed and found myself deep in thought during those long hours. Each day, I felt as though my life was suspended between life and death. After giving birth and nurturing my child, I found profound inspiration in the miracle of life and its grandeur. This led me to begin a jewelry series titled "Breath Series," centered around the themes of life and breath. Breath is vital for life and serves as a medium for my artistic expression. As my child grows, the vitality of my work has evolved alongside them.

Breath series special plastic, silver 92.5_ 129x83x38 mm _2019

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?

I spend a lot of time with my child. Being young, my child is full of creativity and eager to make things alongside me. While our time together gives me great energy, I also recognize the need for my own space as an artist, away from the responsibilities of motherhood. Therefore, during my solitary moments, I enjoy spending time in my studio, listening to the radio or watching movies. It is during this time that I often find artistic inspiration. In particular, my work on the theme of breath was greatly inspired by a film. In the movie, the main character struggles to throw away a birthday balloon that his wife had filled with air while returning home from her funeral. He perceives the balloon as a symbol of his wife’s essence, and this emotional conflict about letting go deeply resonated with me. This scene left a profound impression on me and prompted me to explore the essence of life and how it can be expressed through breath in my own work. It became a catalyst for me to delve deeper into the theme of breath in my creations.

 What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?

My works are created using both metalcraft techniques and 3D printing technology. I can say that my work distinctly demonstrates the characteristics of traditional handcrafted jewelry and contemporary jewelry design. Traditional metalcraft techniques form the foundation of my jewelry work, as I have studied them for a long time. In contrast, the technique of 3D printing was newly explored as a method for shaping and visually manifesting breath, aimed at creating a light yet durable volume that represents breath. Ultimately, this choice has allowed for a free expression of the conceptual images of life and breath, alongside their weight and flexible volumetric representation.

In my previous works, I focused on the structural characteristics of spheres and geometric forms, breaking down shapes and recombining them to create metallic objects with new structures. At that time, I emphasized expressing the volume of the jewelry solely through the material properties of metal and traditional techniques. However, in the new Breath series, I have developed new materials and techniques while considering the expression of volume and the weight of the materials in the wearable jewelry, using many round and bulbous shapes that represent breath. I sought materials that are as light and durable as possible, favoring those that allow for a variable three-dimensional representation of breath. The resulting forms of the breath pieces have a translucent quality and an enchanting texture, reminiscent of glass, with a fragile exterior. However, the actual material used for the breath pieces is a strong and durable special plastic. This choice of material maximizes its advantages while visually embodying the characteristics derived from the concept of 'breath.' This comprehensive implementation of technique, material, and artistic imagination presents the audience with the duality of strength and fragility inherent in the breath pieces.  Thus, my process of exploring materials and techniques itself narrates the traits of contemporary jewelry design and craftsmanship.

Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you? Tell us the story.

This work is THE BREATH POUCH, introduced as part of the "Breath" series in 2021. This piece was created during the COVID-19 pandemic in South Korea. THE BREATH POUCH features round pouch units that evoke the idea of a pocket containing breath. During the pandemic, we experienced a sense of emptiness and loss due to the disconnection of relationships. Although we lost much time and many lives during that period, I prayed that those lost moments would serve as a reminder of the value of life and our efforts toward it. Therefore, this work aims to act as a totem for our return to everyday life by cherishing the warm essence of breath within the pouch units. The intention behind this piece holds great significance in my work. It is the story I wish to convey to those who see and wear my creations, representing my desire to be a source of comfort for someone. Thus, this work and I are increasingly becoming alike.

Which material you have not yet used is a temptation and a challenge?

These days, I am deeply immersed in 3D printing and the coloring process of its outputs. My recent works express colors by dyeing 3D printed materials. I am also considering alternative coloring methods, one of which is the traditional technique of ‘Ottchil’. ‘Ottchil’ is a traditional Korean craft technique that allows for coloring on metal, wood, and the 3D printed pieces I use. ‘Ottchil’ can express a variety of colors using natural materials and can maintain transparency depending on the application method. I am currently experimenting with ‘Ottchil’ alongside 3D printing and contemplating how to modernize and utilize ‘Ottchil’ materials in my work. (‘Ottchil’ refers to the traditional technique of refining the sap from the lacquer tree and applying it like paint to give a glossy finish to furniture, dishes, and other items.)

 How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?

I believe that contemporary jewelry will expand significantly in its artistic realm. The artistic level of jewelry makers is rising, and I feel that there are no longer limitations to the ways in which they express themselves. The diversity of materials and techniques used by artists meets their sculptural beauty, showcasing original contemporary adornments. I also hope to be one of the leading figures in the future of contemporary jewelry.

Find more about the designer here